Introduction:

Just after Susan and I met around the Christmas of 1982, we started planning a cycling trip around Holland. Over the first few months of us meeting I had told Susan of the fantastic times I had cycling around Holland and Europe with my mates, and she was keen to try it herself, very brave of her I thought. We bought Susan a bike and we started preparing for the tour, we went on a few training runs over Penderyn and Ystradfellte to build up her strength. I was OK as I was cycling back and forth to Cam Gears, playing football, walking everywhere and jogging, so I was very fit.

Training for the tour.

One of the potential drawbacks would be to convince her father to let us go together, as we were not married at that stage. We overcame this problem by telling him we were planning on taking two tents, so not to worry. Come the day of departure we loaded one tent each on both bikes at Susan’s house, then cycled down to my mothers house and  dumped one of the tents there.

After all we had enough to carry without an additional tent and sometimes the least you know the better.

N.B. I must admit having read Susan diary from 43 years ago it seems we didn’t go on a cycling tour at all, it was more like a giant pub crawl, judging by the amount of wine and beer we drank on the way.

(Note: Writing in brackets with bold italics is to show additional notes not in the diary to explain something.)

And we’re off:

Sunday the 24th July, 1983.

8 Ynys Las, Glynneath to Harwich: 

Start Mileage ~ 1419 miles (measured on an odometer on Roy’s bike front wheel )

Finish Mileage ~ 1439 miles

Total mileage for the day ~ 20

Weather conditions ~ Not recorded

Diary entry ~ Started journey 8:30 am with Mrs Bowen taking long shot pictures!! Arrived at Neath 9:20 am. Guards van at wrong end of train, Train full!! Arrived in London, after many detours. When we got the bikes out of the guards van, my bike had a broken stand!! 

Train to Harwich full!! Good job we had reservation seats, when we got the bikes out of the guards van, my bike has a damaged stand!! (Note: Boarded the ferry to the Hook of Holland and) found some seats without too much problem. Had a lovely Hamburger and chips and a (pancake roll!!) for supper. Slept on the floor in the bar from 2 am to 5:30 am.

Monday the 25th July, 1983.

Hook of Holland to Le Parage camp site:

Start ~ 1439 miles, Finish ~ 1474 miles; Total mileage for the day ~ 35 miles

Cycling conditions ~ Not recorded.

Diary entry ~ We were first down to the hold in the morning and the bikes were all in one piece thanks God!! Customs did not stamp our passports. Began journey 7:30 am and found our way through Den Haag without any problem (except a tram!!). Bought a new map and cycled until 10:30 and we had our first Uitsmijter (Note: a  breakfast meal of slices of bread topped with ham, eggs and cheese on top) of the journey, FANTASTIC !!

We did not see a pub on our way to the campsite where we stayed – Le Parage (we only just had a space) had a few beers and then we both slept all afternoon.

(Note: We noticed that a gentleman on a motor bike had driven into the canal and was busily cleaning his bike all afternoon, you can see him the photograph above. In the evening we went up the road about 100 yards to a restaurant, the restaurant was named – Langs Berg En Dal.)

Cost of campsite Le Parage: ~ 12 fl.. (4.45 gilders to the pound = £2.69)

Tuesday the 26th July, 1983.

Le Parage camp site to Amsterdam:

Start ~ 1474 miles; Finish ~ 1498 miles; Total mileage for the day ~ 24 miles

Cycling conditions ~ Thunder and lightening, light rain to start then it started bucketing down, rain stopped then the wind started.

Diary Entry ~ Woke up to raindrops falling on the tent!! Packed our bags and began our journey with a Uitsmijter in the restaurant across the road from the camp site. (I had cheese this time Roy stuck to ham.) It started thundering and lightening as soon as we began, the rain wasn’t too heavy at first but then it bucketed down, when the rain stopped the wind began!! But we made it to Amsterdam. 

We were making our way to the campsite when this very kind lady (on a bike) saw that we were lost and took us straight to the site, we would have been ages finding it. Put our tent up and had a look around the camp site. Lovely toilets and showers, a shop, a club and a fruit stall.

Booked to go on a candle light cruise of the city, caught a tram into the centre and walked around for a while. Saw the National Monument and people trying to sell drugs. Boat trip was lovely, saw loads of barge houses – some were amazing, saw the tiniest house in Holland – one window wide, saw the Skinny Bridge. Wine was great. Met this couple on the boat and we went to Oersoep for a drink,  just managed to catch the last tram back.

Cost of campsite for 2 nights: ~ 18 fl. = £4. (Note: The symbol for guilders is fl. which stand for florin, the historic currency of the Netherlands until it was replaced by the Euro in 2002)

Wednesday the 27th July, 1983.

Stayed in Amsterdam:

Diary entry ~ Slept late, had breakfast of hamburgers and baked beans (+ soup to start). Started our journey into Amsterdam around 12 pm. Caught tram into town, visited the Historical Museum, flower market, Anne Franks house. We walked every street in Amsterdam looking for the seedy part!! Went for a drink + meal, 46.30 fl.  It was very nice. Caught tram home with no problem.
(Note: Whilst we were in the seedy part we passed a cafe, with a man being chased out of the cafe by the barman or landlord. The barman threw a chair at the man running away and we both still have a vision of the chair following the man down the road until it run out of momentum and fell to the floor.)

Thursday the 28th July, 1983.

Amsterdam to Den Over:

Start ~ 1498 miles; Finish ~ 1554 miles; Total mileage for the day ~ 56 miles

Cycling conditions ~ Windy but dry.

Diary entry ~ Began journey at 8:50 am. Made our way through Amsterdam and caught the Ferry behind the Central Railway Station, to Lansmeer. Campsite half a mile up road when you get off the ferry – no payment. Made our way up to Pumerland where we had breakfast and a walk about. Saw them selling cheese and a demonstration of making cheese. Then went on to Hoorn by following the dyke which we were directed to by a man. Got lost without knowing it after Hoorn, found ourselves at Hoogerspell, asked this man the way to Den Over. I don’t think he thought we could make it. 

Made our way to Medemblik then to Wieringerwerf and then onto Den Over. (There is a camp site at Wieringerwerf) Bought wine + rolls + cheese for tea, arrived at 5:30 pm. Just about made the last couple of miles, found a campsite put up the tent and collapsed! Woke 8 pm had a shower and went out for a drink and a Chinese meal. Meal very good, cost 32 fl. = £8. Saw windmill in the centre of town. Town seemed empty. Found our way back to campsite.

Cost of campsite De Guest: ~ 8.50 fl. = under £2.

Friday the 29th July, 1983.

Den Over to Franeker:

Start ~ 1554 miles; Finish ~ 1587 miles; Total mileage for the day ~ 33 miles

Cycling conditions ~ Cloudy, Windy (but wind in our direction)

Diary entry ~ Coffee to start, then began our crossing of the Dyke (Note: the massive 32 kilometer dyke is called Afsluitdijk – closure dike and crosses the former Zuidersee – southern sea). Stopped at 4 miles (14 minutes) and took a few pictures, stopped after another 4 miles and saw the other side of the dyke, looking out to the sea and seeing how the dyke was being reconstructed. Ended the 20 miles dyke with a meal in a restaurant. We thought we had ordered Bitterballen (Note: traditional Dutch snack, bite size deep fried balls of savoury beef or veal) but they were beefsteaks at 13 fl. each!! Bill came to 32 fl. Tried to ring home but failed.

Made our way to Franeker. Arrived 3 pm. Put up tent, slept for a while then went for a walk into town. Bought 2 bottles of wine which were under a pound each. Bought some cheeses, ham and bread and had our tea by the tent – very relaxing. When we had recovered from the tea we went for a walk along the canal, meeting some cows on the way, number 224 was very friendly. Walked back to the tent and went straight to sleep – it was only 9:45 pm!!

Cost of Campsite: ~ ANWB Camping Bloemketerp, Adequate, cost 6.50 fl.

Saturday the 30th July, 1983.

Franeker to Aduard:

Start ~ 1587 miles; Finish ~ 1630 miles; Total mileage for the day ~ 53 miles

Cycling conditions ~ Weather very good, not too windy, sometimes too hot.

Diary entry ~ Early start today! Cycled for 17 miles before stopping for breakfast, a ham Uitsmijter. We were going to stop for a drink and have a rest but there were no pubs, and when we went through little villages everything was closed.

Eventually reached Noord Horn where we bought some wine, bread and soup. Stopped in a very small campsite just after Aduard which cost 5.25 fl. for the night. Set up camp, ate our tea and just fell asleep in the sun. Roy burnt a little, my legs are
stiff!! Went for a drink + meal later on. Meal of bitterballen + chips  + soup to start, 18.20 fl. We had to leave the cafe at 9:30 pm as he seemed to be closing, then went back to the tent and drank the other bottle of wine!! Met Dutch boy who was very intelligent, spoke to him for ages about everything under the sun, he also wanted to go cycling in Wales!! 

Cost of Campsite “Nieuw Klap” Aduard: ~ 5.25 fl., very small and basic with no shower facilities, (now permanently closed).

Sunday the 31st July, 1983.

Aduard to Witten:

Start ~ 1630 miles; Finish ~ 1669 miles; Total mileage for the day ~ 39 miles

Cycling conditions ~ Very hot, no shade, slight breeze.

Diary entry ~ Followed canal to Hoogkerk, then onto Peize, then towards Noorg and took cycle paths from before Noorg to to Ter Aard, made good time until then but got lost, kept going around in circles, whenever we thought we had found it (Note: the campsite), we would usually be miles from where we thought!! After about 1 3/4 hours in boiling hot weather we eventually found the camp site!! We changed cheques, run to put our tent up, changed into swimming costumes and jumped into a very cold swimming pool!!

After we had cooled we sat by the pool eating sausage and chips – which was very cheap and drank lot’s of lager. Left the pool around 7 pm and went for a walk around, toilets nice but no paper, showers nice, basins excellent. There is a restaurant, shop, washing facilities. Showered and went to bed.

Monday the 1st August, 1983.

Stayed in Witten:

Diary entry ~ Roy had to get out of bed at 6 am to get the bags off the bike and to secure the fly sheet away from the tent!! It was raining very heavily and thunder in the distance. Then later the sound of machine gun fire!! Slept until late, went to the shop and made our own breakfast of 3 eggs, onions, 2 rolls and a slice of cheese plus 1/2 yogurt EACH!!

Cycled past a lake and stopped to watch the windsurfers falling in – the wind was much to strong. 

We were standing by the side of the road and I didn’t see the two soldiers in camouflage (Note: even though I was nearly standing on top of them,) Roy did.

Made our way into Assen, walked around town. I was treated to a new pair of shorts for cycling. Sat by the side of the road and had a relaxing hour drinking lager. Found our way back to the campsite. Went to the restaurant had food and a drink and had a game of chess and backgammon (not saying who won!!) Had a hours rest before going out for the night to the restaurant.

Cost of Witten (Vakantipark) campsite for 2 nights: ~ 23.70 fl. very good, toilets clean – no paper,

Tuesday the 2nd August, 1983.

Witten to Ommen:

Start ~ 1669 miles; Finish ~ 1722 miles; Total mileage for the day ~ 53 miles

Cycling conditions ~ Rain and wind – very hard going.

Diary entry ~ Early start, stopped twice because of the rain. Uitmeister for breakfast in a hotel and then dinner in a small town with a few lagers. Kept trying to outrun the rain but failed. Made it to our campsite in Ommen by 4 pm. Made our own tea, egg rolls and ham and cheese rolls. Found our money wouldn’t fit into the shower so we had to do without. I got soaked by some children, Roy got stuck in the toilet.

Went out for a good drink. Nobody had any inhibitions about staring!! Very cold during the night, had to wear socks to keep warm.

Cost of campsite: ~ 12.50 ft.

Wednesday the 3rd August, 1983.

Ommen to Holten:

Start ~ 1722 miles; Finish ~ 1751 miles; Total mileage for the day ~ 29 miles

Cycling conditions ~ Windy at times but generally good.

Diary entry ~  Late start, got lost between Ommen and Nijverdal – added about 3 miles – not much really. Stopped for chips outside Ommen, we think that is where we went wrong. Made our way through the adventure park, they were the first real hills we had seen – I had to get off and push on one of the hills. Went down a gradient of 10% which as great and found the campsite without too much problem, just outside Holten.

Walked to town, had a few drinks in the Railway Station bar, and then for a Chinese Indonesian meal – had an Indonesian Rijsttafel. (Note: A Dutch Indonesian rice table vey popular in Holland, a feast of dishes with shareable side dishes), 2 chicken curries, kebabs, eggs in a sauce beansprouts and sauce, bpeanute and 2 chicken portions and boiled rice, the man serving thought that it would be too spicy for us, but it was finished in 15 minutes.

Got lost on the way through the woods, we though it would be a quicker way, we did pass one camp, but we didn’t think it was ours – it was!! It added at least 1/2 hr. onto the journey.

Cost of campsite: ~ 8.8 fl. Shower and toilets clean and adequate, clubhouse on site.

Thursday the 4th August, 1983.

Holten to Arnhem:

Start ~ 1751 miles; Finish ~ 1795 miles; Total mileage for the day ~ 44 miles

Cycling conditions ~ Variable, raining at first, sometimes quite difficult (cycling) against the wind.

Diary entry ~ Usual start, stopped for breakfast in a restaurant. Started to rain!! Made our way to Eeerbeek for a hamburger and a beer. Headed for Arnhem, when we were getting closer too Arnhem the roads got steeper and steeper!! (downhill)

We didn’t know our way to the campsite, but Roy had a good idea, we stopped to read the map and this couple stopped to show us the way and as it happened they were on their way to the campsite. We were on the right track, but it was very kind of them to show us the way.

Booked in and found a camping pitch in-between the trees, close to the amenities. I went and did some washing, which didn’t take long, then we both had a shower and went to the campsite restaurant. Had supper of goulash + chips, a few beers and also a plate of chips afterwards – no wonder were getting fat!! They wouldn’t change our money so we had to count the pennies!!

Friday the 5th August, 1983.

Arnhem:

Start ~ 1795 miles; Finish ~ 1807 miles; Total mileage for the day ~ 9 miles

Cycling conditions ~ 

Diary entry ~ Late start today. Biked into Arnhem, hills all the way, but made it. Parked our bikes and changed some money, then went for a look around the shops and to have a meal. Found this lovely small restaurant, Roy ordered steak and I decided to try a snitzel!! It’s funny how Roy remembered what it as when the man put the plate down in front of me, I thought it was fish, but it was horse steak!! Mind you I ate it all.

Went for a walk along the river to try and find a boat trip and “the Bridge”. (Note: the famous Arnhem bridge from WW2, the primary objective of the Allied  airborne assault named Market Garden) No boats and no bridge – out of luck! 

Made our way back to the bikes and then on our way out of Arnhem, all uphill. I had to push once – it was my own fault, I slowed down too much and then stopped!! Decided to visit the safari park, but they said we couldn’t go around on our bikes!! (Note: Just as well, as it was like Longleat were the animals like Lions were roaming free, so we would have ended up on the menu if they had let us in.) 

Then went to see the open air museum, it showed old Dutch farmhouses, horse driven oil mill, windmills (which we couldn’t go inside), bakery, merchants house, herb garden, double drawbridge, old cottages and a brewery. Also there was a wheelwright exhibition showing all tools and machinery that he would have used, it was very interesting, it was a shame we didn’t have longer to look.

The way back to the campsite was much easier than I had thought, because the wind was with us, (Note: so it was easier to get up the hills.) Rested for a while before going out for a meal – Nasi goreng, (Note: Indonesian fried rice traditionally served with a fried egg.) it was huge but nice, the man opposite ordered two!! Drank a few lagers, Roy had one pint tipped over him.

Saturday the 6th August, 1983.

Arnhem to S-Hertogenbosch:

Start ~ 1807 miles; Finish ~ 1857 miles; Total mileage for the day ~ 50 miles

Cycling conditions ~ Quite good, windy but no rain while cycling. Started to rain about an hour after the tent was raised.

Diary entry ~ Found a little difficulty going through Arnhem, but we soon sorted that out. Once out of Arnhem the land got flatter and easier to cycle. Caught a ferry over a river at a point just below Appletorn. The made our way to Oss where we stopped for a few beers and a pineapple and cream pancake – nice at the time, but not sure that it might have upset Roy’s stomach, it was either that or the breakfast we had at Elst it was huge with cooked ham and fried ham!!

We decided that S-Hertogenbosch was where we were going to camp, but I’m afraid we got slightly lost around Berlicum and we were not really sure where we are. Found a campsite – Vinceloord I think. Nice campsite facilities clean – only one shower close to us (forgot to say that we met this old man who stopped to help us, but he couldn’t speak a word of English, he had us thinking we were miles off!!

Cost of camping at Vinceloord: ~ not recorded.

Sunday the 7th August, 1983.

S-Hertogenbosch to Tilburg:

Start ~ 1857 miles; Finish ~ 1890 miles; Total mileage for the day ~ 33 miles

Cycling conditions ~ not recorded.

Diary entry ~ Took our time this morning as it didn’t seem that we had far to go, got on the right way quite easily considering that we didn’t know exactly where we were. 

We stopped for a coffee in one cafe but it didn’t do breakfast, we then cycled further down the road and found a lovely restaurant by the side of the road, we ordered a Uitmeister each – when they arrived we nearly collapsed!! THREE EGGS, plus loads of ham, neither of us finished them.

We were making good time so about 12:30 pm we stopped for a drink in a lovely cafe, we would have stayed longer but the bees where getting on our nerves. We got to Tilburg without any trouble but we couldn’t find the campsite for ages. We knew we were close but couldn’t quite get there. Arrived at the campsite around 3 pm. Price was higher at this site than anywhere we had seen before 33.50 fl. = £7.50.)

Our place where we were to pitch was rather lumpy but not too bad to sleep on. We made our own tea, cold meat, onions, tomatoes a lovely salad dressing a bit like corn beef hash with salad dressing – it was lovely. We also had grated cheese which was for cooking, it wasn’t too bad but Roy couldn’t eat it. 

Drank our wine and watched our neighbours playing rounders, we were asked if we wanted a game, but after the wine we thought we better not (some were English, they were all very friendly). Went out for a drink and it was Bingo night, they had good prizes, bought some chicken + chips and ate them outside the tent.

Cost of camping: ~ 33.50 fl per night.

Monday the 8th August, 1983.

Tilburg:

Start ~ A non cycling day today.

Weather conditions ~ Weather today really warm.

Diary entry ~ Early start to try and get to see most things around the park. Park wasn’t very far – a short walk, paid 7.50 fl. to get in, walked around at first, had a roll and a drink and then went to see a picture  – `Around the World` on the biggest curved 3D screen in Europe, it was amazing you really though you were there. We then went for a trip on the cable car / gondolas it lasted for about 45 minutes and you could see everything around the park. We then took a Safari bus which took us around to see all the animals. There were Gnus which I’d never seen before, it was amazingly hot on the bus, the seats were scorching, cost of trip 7.50 fl. each.

We then went into a huge tent that had a pop singer singing and also dancing girls, the really amazing thing was that the whole thing was to advertise cigarettes. They were even offering cigarettes as you were going in!! Went to see another film about flying on the big screen, this one was much better, really life like!!

We stopped for a slush drink which was so cold it numbed Roy down one side (of his face!) There were loads of windsurfers at the lake and they were giving lessons, we were tempted but we really didn’t have enough time and money. Went back and made our own tea of rice and goulash and cheese and biscuits for afters, accompanied by 2 bottles of wine. We went for a drink late on in the night, the place was much quieter tonight because there was no Bingo!! Bought chips to go home – again!!

Tuesday the 9th August, 1983.

Tilburg to Schoonhoven:

Start ~ 1890 miles; Finish ~ 1941 miles; Total mileage for the day ~ 51 miles

Cycling conditions ~ Very hot, with the wind against us a lot of the way.

Diary entry ~ Early start today, got lost getting out of Tilburg but got on the right track in the end. Made our way to De Efeling which is a recreation park cost 25 fl. for both of us but no one had to pay for any rides once they were in. We made our way to the “Python”, had to wait for 1/2 an hour to get a place on the ride, but it was worth it. At first it went up a really steep incline then down into two loops and then two corkscrews turns. When you opened your eyes you were looking upside down. (See photos below.)

We then went to see the Haunted Castle which showed an arm holding a chandelier which chimed and then you could see eyes around the room and then the ceiling lit up and showed these really horrible animals flying around. We also saw a haunted cemetery with puppets moving around, it was very good. Took a walk around a fairy tale garden and saw a new ride called the “Piranha”, which had boats going along a river.

We had to find our way out then which was hard, there were so many people there and it was so hot. We finally commenced our way to Gorinchem, crossing the river on a ferry on the way and then onto to Schoonhoven, crossing the river again on the way, we found our campsite quite easily, but we were just in time and we had to camp on the Quay side (as you can see in the photo below).

Camping ~ Statcamping, Schoonhoven.

Wednesday the 10th August, 1983.

Schoonhaven to Gouda:

Start ~ 1941 miles; Finish ~ 1955 miles; Total mileage for the day ~ 14 miles

Cycling conditions ~ Good, moderate wind, very hot.

Diary entry ~ Not so far to travel today so we took our time. Stopped for a coffee and we still arrived at the campsite by 11 am!! Put up the tent and walked into town which was much further than we had thought, saw hundreds of cyclists in town. Walked past the town square and there was a cattle market going on.

Went for an Italian Meal in a restaurant Roy had been before. Service was a bit poor but the food was good. Then went to buy some presents, bought 2 dolls for the girls, cheese for Mr and Mrs Bowen and tobacco for Roy’s friend in work (no not that type), also a Delft tile. Went for a few beers before finding a food shop to buy food to make our own tea.

Made our way back to the campsite and made a lovely meal, washed down with 2 bottles of wine. Went for a drink in the camp bar and had a game similar to billiards!

Camping ~ Statcamping, Schoonhooven.

Thursday the 11th August, 1983.

Gouda to Hook of Holland:

Start ~ 1955 miles; Finish ~ 1992 miles; Total mileage for the day ~ 43 miles

Cycling conditions ~ Good, very warm.

Diary entry ~ We were all ready to go this morning, bikes packed etc, went to take the locks off our bikes, and guess who’d lost the keys!! Couldn’t find them anywhere, in the end I had to ask the camp proprietor if we could borrow a chisel, to break the locks! Finally started at 10:30 am went into Gouda and bought a cheese for my parents. Town was even busier than it was yesterday, the cheese market was on and also a flea market, where we saw a man making clogs. There were a few stalls where they were showing their skills – woodworking, painting, pottery etc.

Gouda cheese market

Made our way to the Hoek of Holland, we found our way quite easily as it was well sign posted. We arrived at 3 pm and the boat wasn’t leaving until 11 pm. Rode down to to the beach where we had a walk around and a lie down. Arrived back at the quay where we spent our last zonks on two coffee’s a meal and two beers. Had to wait for ages to board the ship and it was getting rather cold.

Roy and I were first on the ship. The ship was amazing it had everything. A cabaret bar fixed out in green Drayton and the seats were arranged in steps. There was a cinema, a snack bar and a posh restaurant (no hot food for those of us who were not posh!!) Had a few beers and bought some presents, we then went to watch Superman III  in the cinema, halfway through the film the thing broke, we had our money back because it couldn’t be fixed. Found a place under the stairway to sleep. Had a few hours sleep then we were off the ship by 7:30 am (queues were much too long to get a cup of coffee!!)

We were unable to get on the first train as it was for reservations. We went for breakfast in the British Rail Cafe – A little pricey for what we got! Just managed to catch the train at 8:15 am, because they didn’t announce that it was there!! Kept falling asleep all the way to Liverpool Street station. Made our (way across London) to Paddington station without hardly any problems, the amount of traffic was amazing – took 40 minutes to get there.

Roy thought that it was best to get tickets for the bikes to travel on the train – it’s a good job we did because the guardsman would never have let us through – talk about strict. We arrived at the station at 10:45 am and the train left at 11 am – good timing. 

Slept a lot on the way home, met some man who worked with Roy, he said his family had been to Florida. Arrived in Neath at 1:30 pm and arrived home at 2:30 pm.

Total distance cycled = 593 miles.

Campsite photographs:

Conclusion:

Anyone thinking of taking a cycling tour, I would highly recommend it, and what better place to go than the Netherlands. The cycle paths are amazing throughout the country and the welcome we received from the Dutch people was second to none.

We certainly enjoyed our time there, yes we had a few difficulties, but nothing too serious to spoil our enjoyment.